Cheshire India Porter

Andy and I both particularly like The Kernel Brewery’s Export India Porter. It’s a forthright little beer – deeply dark, with roasty coffee flavours but also hugely bitter with assertive hop flavours and aromas. You might think such strong hop flavour and aroma wouldn’t work with the dark malts, but it does. They complement rather than compete.
I bought a “bookazine” called The Complete Homebrew Handbook ages ago. Read it. Enjoyed it. Put it on the shelf. Only recently did I stumble upon the Export India Porter recipe in it. So we had to give it a try.
I have to admit I was astonished how much US hops were in the recipe. There’s 152g in there, if you include the dry hops. And they’re high alpha hops too (ie very bitter). Andy usually hates hops like that. But he’s a good sport and agreed to give it a go anyway since he likes the Kernel original.
We weren’t disappointed. I think this is a pretty good version of the original. Not a beer where you would drink more than one, but certainly a great one to have in store. Having said that, with all those hops flavours in there it probably should be drunk fairly soon before they fade.
I made one adjustment to the recipe because of what I had available, using amber malt rather than brown malt. I also note that the original Kernel beer states the hops as Columbus, Chinook and Motueka. The recipe used Magnum rather than Motueka and I went along with that.
One last point: the Columbus and Chinook hops we used were pellets rather than compressed whole hops. Usually I buy vacuum packed whole hops from either Morris Hanbury or The Malt Miller. But my local homebrew store is now stocking a range of pellets from Bulldog. I have to say I’ve been pretty impressed. They are easy to use (no hacking the cake of hops apart with a knife), pretty cheap and don’t fill your boil kettle with masses of vegetable matter which makes running off a bit easier. Hop pellets seem to be the only option in the USA. Looks like they are coming over here too.

Export India Porter

Grain bill
Maris Otter  4111g  72.7%
Amber Malt  500g  8.8%
Chocolate Malt  373g  6.6%
Munich Malt  373g  6.6%
Black Malt  150g  2.7%
Crystal 70  150g  2.7%

Hop schedule
Magnum  17.3%AA  14g  60min  23IBU
Chinook  13%AA  4g  15min  2.5IBU
Columbus  13%AA  4g  15min  2.5IBU
Chinook  13%AA  16g  10min  7.2IBU
Columbus  13%AA  8g  10min  3.6IBU
Chinook  13%AA  39g  5min  9.6IBU
Columbus  13%AA  17g  5min  4.2IBU
Chinook  30g  dry hop  5 days
Columbus  20g  dry hop  5 days

Water treatment: None
Yeast: 1 sachet Safale US-05, 1/2 sachet Safale S-04.
Batch size: 23l
Mash temp: 67C
Mash time: 60 min
Boil time: 60 min
OG: 1.061
IBU: 52.6 (Rager)
Colour: 30 Lovibond, 40 SRM, 79 EBC
Target FG: 1.013



Target ABV: 6.5%

Six Month Catch Up (Part 2)

Last time I posted I was trying to catch up with the brews we’ve made since my last blog posts. Without further ado…

Gyle 83 Vanilla Oak Unusual

We have a recipe that we call Audlem Unusual, which is very similar to Old Peculier – a particularly favourite beer. We usually brew this beer to be ready for Christmas. So we did this brew on 12th October and it fact we still have a little left in the barrel and it is drinking very well.
But this year we wanted to put a little twist on it, so we added oak chips and two vanilla pods. It was a subtle addition, but I think it was very nice for a change.
We used 30g of medium toast french oak chips, which were added to 200ml of boiling water (to give them a little sanitation). This was then cooled and added to the beer 4 days into fermentation. The vanilla pods were split and the seeds removed, then the seeds and pods were added to the fermenter at the same time.

Gyle 84 Milk Stout

Milk Stout is an unusual beer style because it is sweetened with milk sugar (lactose). This gives it a sweet flavour to complement the dark, rich full-roasted flavours of the stout. Lovely!
So why is milk sugar added, rather than ordinary sugar? Well ordinary sugar is fermentable by yeast, so will just give you a stronger dry beer. Lactose is not fermentable so you can rely on it staying in the beer to give sweetness.
As with many of our beers, I used the recipe from Brewing Classic Styles by Jamil Zainasheff and John Palmer. I have had such success with the recipes in this book. There’s only one recipe per style, but that still gives you 80 recipes to try and every one I have done has come out extremely well. The recipes are formulated for brewing with malt extract, but for every one there’s an all-grain option with is easy enough to use to convert the recipe. If you make all-grain beer (or extract) you should have a copy of this book.
Oh, and of course the milk stout came out great too. It was another one we brewed for Christmas, so that and the Vanilla Oak Unusual gave plenty of dark ale variety.

Gyle 85 Export India Porter

This was such a great brew I think it warrants a post all of its own (and probably the recipe too). Watch this space…

Six Month Catch Up

Oh my goodness, has it been six months since I last wrote a beery blog post? Looks like it. Why? Well, no particular reason to be honest. Andy and I have still been making beer but for some reason I’ve just not had the time and/or inclination to blog about it.

So here is a quick post to get me started again. I guess the best thing for me to do is re-cap the last six months of brewing as briefly as possible, then I can take up with more specific articles about what we’re doing now.

Gyle 80 Mosaic SMaSH beer (June)

This was our first true “Single Mash and Single Hop” (SMaSH) brew, used to provide a simple beer to allow us to try some Mosaic hops. The recipe was simply 5kg of Maris Otter malt, mashed at 66C. Mosaic hops were added to the boil at 60 min (15g), 20 min (20g), 10 min (20g) and flame out (20g). The remaining 25g of hops were used to dry hop the beer in the keg. Yeast was Safale S-04, fermented at around 19C (keep it cool to keep it clean!).

Any good? Depends who you ask. If you ask me, the answer is “oh my god yes!” I love American hops, and Mosaic is right there up with the best in my opinion. Forthright, aromatic and deeply flavourful, without being aggressive. However Andy didn’t touch a single pint of this beer. (“Nasty, horrible, pine fresh”).

Gyle 81 Gin Wit (July)

OK, this one was a bit experimental. We both love gin, so we wanted to try some gin botanicals in a beer. We decided to make a wit (lager malt, wheat malt, torrified wheat, munich malt and some porridge oats) and add juniper berries (20g, 10 min), lemon zest (15g, 5 min) and grains of paradise (5g, 2 min).

Any good? No, not especially. I mean it was drinkable, but the botanicals just didn’t “pop” out of the beer. Muddy and confused flavours. Back to the drawing board on that one I think.

Gyle 82 Flyer (September)

Another SMaSH beer, this time with Flyer hops. Same recipe as above.

Any good? Well Flyer is a much less assertive hop than Mosaic. What we ended up making got branded “pub beer” by the drinking committee. It was light in colour and strength, and just a tasty quaffable beer.

Flyer is a brand new British hop (http://www.britishhops.org.uk/flyer/) described as “citrus, stoned fruits, liquorice, treacle-toffee and caramel”. I didn’t get a lot of any of those, but I did get a good standard British hop. Unremarkable you might say. “Pub beer” is what I say.

 

Oh dear, I’ve gone over a page already. I‘ve got a couple more beers to tell you about but I think I’ll leave those to another post.

The Grainfather – in photos

As I mentioned in my previous post, my mate Andy from the newly named Prince Albert Ales has splashed out on a Grainfather brewing system. You can read my initial description of the system in this post (to save me typing it again).

The brew day started with cleaning the system, especially because it was brand new so the recommendation was to run cleaner through it for a reasonable time to remove any factory grime (I’m sure they didn’t use those exact words in the manual).

Recipe and grains were prepared in advance (today it was a German wheat beer):

Once rinsed, the Grainfather was filled with strike water and set at the target temperature to heat up:

Once at temperature in go the grains:

Then on goes a mesh to prevent the top of the grain bed being disturbed by recirculated mash liquor and later sparge water:

Then the mash recirculation pipe is fitted and the pump turned on so the mash liquor at the bottom is pumped up and onto the top of the mash:

Wait an hour and have some lunch…

At the end of the mash, there’s a foam on top of the mash:

Here’s the clever bit – lift the inner cylinder up and lock it in place so the wort can drain out of the grains into the boiler below:

Commence sparging – simply pour the sparge water onto the top mesh above the grain bed:

Once finished, remove the mesh, and indeed the whole grains cylinder:

In go the hops and the boil commences:

At this point I left Andy to it. But at the end of the boil the counterflow wort chiller is used to recirculate the wort until chilled to the required temperature, whereupon it is pumped into the fermenting vessel.

That’s it! In all we were very impressed. There were a couple of learning points:

1. The handle for the inner grain cylinder can easily come away when you are tipping the grain out of the cylinder. As a result Andy managed to drop it as he was tipping into the compost bin. Minimal damage fortunately.
2. Pumping out into the FV took forever because of the hops clogging up the outlet. Looks like a hop bag is essential.

On the brighter side, the OG was 1.060 when the recipe had said 1.050, so it’s clear the system is very efficient. That’ll be the mash recirculation I guess.

Now, I just need to find £600…

Beer Engine maintenance

My beer engine is the best impulse purchase I have ever made. It changes good home-made beer into great home-made beer and allows me to serve beer to my guests that is pretty close to what they’d get in a British (northern) pub. I love it.

Last Wednesday it was giving me a bit of jip though. I did manage to get beer out of it, but is was hugely foamed up, so you only got about half a pint of froth.

This weekend Andy and I took it apart to see if some TLC would sort out the problem.

At this point it may be worth you having a look back at my previous post called Anatomy of a Beer Engine. This shows the insides of my beer engine last time I took it apart. This post is, incidentally, the most popular post on this blog!

So Andy and I took it apart on Friday and cleaned everything and put it back together. At this stage it became apparent that we’d made it worse – there was absolutely no draw at all. Andy’s calm and unflappable nature prevailed… so rather than getting stressed for the whole evening over it we put it back together and sat down and had a beer (bottled of course) to think it over.

Today I had another go at it and it seems to be working OK now. The problem? Well, there is a non-return valve at the bottom of the cylinder which I think had seized up. It’s the fat white cylinder with the input nozzle shown below:

It comes apart like this:

The beer is drawn in through the nozzle, through the valve inside, and out through the hole in the white plastic unit and thence into the bottom of the pump cylinder (the stainless steel bit).

Last time I took the engine apart I didn’t disassemble the non-return valve. Today, in desperation, I took it all apart.

Like everything about this beer engine, it’s elegant in its simplicity.

In the back of the nozzle section (the bit that is unscrewed) is a small movable piece (with the red ring) that is pushed in place by a long spring.

As you pull the beer engine handle it draws the piston up the cylinder, which reduces the pressure in the lower part of the cylinder. This pulls the moveable piece out a bit, allowing beer to be drawn into the engine cylinder. When you stop pulling, the spring pushes the piece back in to prevent beer returning back up the pipe. Dead simple.

As you can see, it was a bit dirty. I think grime on the red seal had caused it to stick in place.

Once it was all taken apart, cleaned with a toothbrush and then put back together the beer engine seems to be back to full working order.

I’ve not actually tried it with beer yet, but it now draws water just fine.

In other news: Remember I posted recently about The Grainfather? Well on seeing my post my mate Andy (the other Andy, not the Cheshire Peaks Andy) went straight out and ordered one. I’ll be very interested to hear how he gets on with it. If I can get some photos it may make an interesting post for the future.

Marks and Spencer Craft Ale Range

We all love something new. In fact you could go so far as to say that our society is obsessed with everything that is different, new and improved. Anyway, it has to be said that the same is true in beer-making as much as anything else in life.

Take hops: England used to have a selection of about a dozen “native” hops (Fuggles, Goldings, Challenger, Target, Northdown, Whitbread Goldings to name but a few). They have subtle earthy and fruity flavours. Maybe just a little bit spicy. Then along came the American varieties with their massive bittering and citrus and piney flavours (Cascade, Columbus, Centennial, Chinook, Citra – I think they all have to start with a C!). We loved them because they were NEW! Still do.

But now England fights back. We are starting to see some new varieties that have been bred in England but have all those “new” flavours drinkers are looking for. But are grown over here.

One of those new varieties is called Jester (maybe because it is taking the mickey out of the American hops varieties?!) This hop has only been available commercially since about 2012 and as yet I have not seen them for sale to homebrewers. But this week I discovered that one of Marks and Spencer’s “Single Hop Variety British Hop” ales is called Jester.

Oh my god it was good. It did not disappoint with its “soft, aromatic flavours of gooseberry and lychee”. This ale is billed as an “IPA”, but it left no noticeable bitter aftertaste. Just the gorgeous flavours of new world hops. In fact my wife, who usually hates beer because of “that beery aftertaste” said this beer was the first one that she felt she could actually sit down and drink to herself (rather than just sipping mine).

Anyway, SEEK IT OUT! We’ve all got an M&S nearby.

And while you’re in there, try some of the others in the range. I have to commend M&S on their whole “Single Hop Variety Hop” range. There are quite a number of them and every one I have had has been either good or excellent. Each is brewed on contract by a different brewer (Jester IPA is made by Adnams in Suffolk).

http://www.marksandspencer.com/l/food-and-wine/wine-shop/beer-cider-and-ale

Non-disclaimer: The author does NOT own any shares in Marks and Spencer. Honestly.

The Grainfather

I walked into my local homebrew shop today and Julie (who shall be called Sue) said “have you seen my Grainfather?”

I’d never heard of this thing. I’d seen some stuff about the PicoBrew Zymatic, which is a box that you pour grain into and beer comes out the other end (after waiting a while and taking $2000 out of your bank account). This is the breadmaker of the homebrew world.

But the Grainfather is a bit different – this is a mash tun, boiler and wort chiller all built into one device. You still have to do the actual brewing, but it’s all done with the one piece of equipment.

How does it work? Well it looks like this:

(Image from http://www.lovebrewing.co.uk/)

So it’s a five gallon boiler with a recirculating pump built into the bottom (left hand side on this photo). This allows you to mash with a temperature controlled heater (the black box on the side).

Once the mash is done, the grains are lifted up in a sort of inner basket, which allows the wort to drain below and sparge water to be added.

Once all the wort is collected, the Grainfather becomes a boiler and boils your brew. Finally the pump is used to pump your wort through the counterflow chiller (right hand side of the top photo) and into your fermenter.

Neat!

And the price? £599. But if you were starting out you wouldn’t need to buy a boiler (£150), a mash tun (£75) or a chiller (£75). OK, so the Grainfather is twice that, but it’s still pretty cool.